I was vacationing on the Greek island of Corfu for about a month in August of 1992. I rent a motorcycle and head into the interior of the island in search of isolated trails and sleepy villages. I rode for hours along dirt trails flanked by bright yellow wildflowers, over steep and rugged hills, and past wide fields where farmers struggled to grow anything that would take root in the barren, rocky soil. I had to keep a close watch on the gas tank because there were no gas stations anywhere except at the village where I had rented the motorcycle. At half a tank, I had no choice but to turn back.
The needle had just hit halfway and I was turning around to head back when I noticed an old cemetery in the distance, far away from any village or other sign of habitation. I decided to stretch my legs before beginning the long trip home. I rode to the gate, killed the engine and laid the bike down. As I passed through the creaky, wrought iron gate, I couldn't help but notice how silent the place was. I had to whistle to reassure myself that I hadn't gone deaf. There were only a few hours of daylight left and a strong wind was blowing, stirring the overgrown grass which partially obscured the scattered tombstones.
1992年8月,我去希腊的科孚岛度了一个月假。我在那租了辆摩托车,骑着进了岛的深处,探索那些与世隔绝很久的遗迹和沉睡的小村庄。我在烂泥路上一骑就是几个小时,翻过一座座陡峭的小山,穿过了一大片贫瘠的沙土地,可以看得出来,农民们费尽了心思把所有可能在这种地上扎根的东西都种过了。我必须得时刻留神油表,因为除了在我租摩托车的村子以外是没有加油站的。一旦用完了半箱油,我就不得不返回了。
随后,指针指向了油表的中央,我掉头正准备回去,这时候发现远处有座古墓,距离这些村子和民居有很远的一段距离。我决定在往回赶之前走一走,放松一下我的双条腿,于是我骑车到了墓室的大门口,关上引擎然后把车倒放在地上。我走过那扇曾经是很精致但是现在已经摇摇欲坠的大铁门,里面竟然安静得连一点声音都没有,以至于我不得不吹了个口哨来提醒自己并没变成了聋子。再有一两个小时太阳就要下山了,一股劲风刮来,吹得丛生的已经蔓延到了墓碑上的杂草来回摇摇晃晃的。