5.墨西哥油炸玉米饼
First of all, forget everything you think you know about quesadillas. A microwaved flour tortilla stuffed with cheddar cheese is about as authentically Mexican as a Dorito Loco taco from Taco Bell. When my wife and I lived in Mexico, we discovered that the soul of real Mexican food is masa, the ground-corn dough — not wheat flour — that's used to make soft corn tortillas for tacos, steamed tamales, gorditas, and innumerable regional antojitos, Mexican street snacks with deep indigenous roots.
首先,忘记你之前知道的关于油炸玉米饼的一切信息吧。在一张微波薄面饼里塞入切达干酪才是真正的墨西哥式食物,就像由餐饮品牌塔可钟提供的食物一样。当我和我的妻子在墨西哥的时候,发现墨西哥食物的精髓就是用玉米粉制作面团,而不是小麦粉。松软的玉米饼、玉米粉蒸肉、圆形玉米饼和玉米饼餐都是用玉米粉做成的面团作为材料。墨西哥的街头小吃都彰显着这种源远流长的本土特色。
A real Mexican quesadilla starts with that freshly ground corn masa. A large hunk of soft dough is pressed or rolled into a rough circle and laid on a hot griddle. The basic version is filled with shredded Chihuahua or Oaxacan string cheese and folded over into a half moon. But why stop with cheese? At Mexican street stalls, you'll find mouth-watering fillings like potato and crumbled chorizo sausage, nopal (cactus), squash blossoms, sautéed mushrooms, huitlacoche(an earthy corn fungus), refried beans, and all varieties of grilled or slow-cooked meats. I've found that real-deal quesadillas are best enjoyed on a wobbly wooden bench inside a bustling open-air market with a healthy dollop of salsa verde (the tomatillo-based green salsa) and an icy agua fresca, a sugary fruit juice in every imaginable flavor ladled from giant plastic jugs.
要做一个真正的墨西哥油炸玉米饼,首先要有发酵好的玉米面团。一大团松软的面团被揉捏碾压成圆形,然后放在热的平底煎锅里。最基本的做法是在饼里填满切碎的肉或者瓦哈卡的拔丝奶酪,然后折叠成一个半月形。但是为什么一定要加奶酪呢?在墨西哥街头美食小摊处,你会发现其他令人垂涎欲滴的馅料,比如:土豆和切碎的西班牙腊肠、仙人掌、南瓜花、腌制的蘑菇、墨西哥玉米松露(玉米蘑菇)、炸豆泥和各式各样或烤或慢火烹调的熟肉。在熙熙攘攘的露天市场里,坐在摇摇晃晃的木质长凳上,吃着油炸玉米饼,搭配上健康的欧芹酱(洋葱做的辣调味汁的酸浆)和一杯加冰的清凉水果饮料(装在大塑料罐里的一种风味独特的甜饮料),无疑是一大享受。
4.Crepes and Galettes, France
4.法式可丽饼和酥饼
For a country that invented fine dining, the crepe is astonishingly simple. There are two basic varieties, the savory galette made from dark buckwheat flour and the white-flour crepe reserved for sweet treats. Both were traditionally eaten in Brittany in the northwest of France, but immigrants from the region brought the quick-cooked griddle cakes to Paris, where everyone from street vendors to Michelin-starred restaurants, serve the classic dish.
对于一个以美食闻名于世的国家来说,制作薄饼真的是小菜一碟。法式薄饼通常分为两种:一种是用黑色乔麦面粉做的可口的法式酥饼,而另一种是专为喜欢甜食的人提供的白面法式可丽饼。两种薄饼都是法国西北部地区布列塔尼的传统小吃,之后当地移民把这种通过速烤制成薄饼的方法带去了巴黎,最终从街头小吃摊到米其林餐厅,到处都可以看到这种经典小吃。
The traditional filling for a savory galette is country ham and melted Gruyere cheese washed down by a dry cider. The complète version of the galette includes a fried egg with a sumptuously runny yolk. For a sweet crepe, there's always the hazelnut-chocolate spread Nutella (my personal favorite) or strawberries and cream, but don't miss out on salted caramel or the simple pleasure of powdered sugar.
传统法式酥饼里面的馅是火腿肉和在干苹果酒中冲泡融化的格鲁耶尔干酪。真正的法式酥饼还会再加上一个有着奢华松软蛋黄的煎鸡蛋。说到甜品可丽饼,通常里面都会加点能多益牌的榛子巧克力酱(我的最爱)或者是草莓和奶油,但是不要忘了还可以加点咸味焦糖或者白砂糖。
3.越南三明治
The banh mi is the world's best sandwich. Hands down. The Cubans make a mean cubano and it's hard to argue with an Italian panini, but if you want to know what heaven on bread tastes like, hop the next flight to Hanoi and sink your teeth into one of these French-Vietnamese beauties.
毫无疑问,越南三明治是世界上最好吃的三明治。古巴三明治与意大利帕尼尼三明治的味道不相上下,如果你想知道天堂的三明治尝起来是什么味道的话,你一定要立刻去搭下趟航班前往河内,去尝尝那些美味的法式越南料理。
Vietnam was once a French colonial outpost and arguably the only good thing that came out of that chapter of Vietnamese history was the banh mi. A world-class banh mi starts with the bread, a fresh-baked mini baguette. The baguette is sliced lengthwise and slathered in mayonnaise and a thin spread of pâté. So far, so French. But here's where things get interesting. The meat of choice is usually barbecued pork, although Vietnamese-style pork meatballs, pork "roll" or Vietnamese salami are other solid choices. Then the veggies: thin-sliced cucumber, pickled daikon radish and carrots, a handful of cilantro and enough chili sauce (or straight chili peppers) to make you sweat.
越南曾经是法国的殖民地,据说这段历史给越南带来的唯一好处就是越南法式三明治。世界一流的越南三明治主要原料是面包,而且必须是现烤的法式长面包。把面包纵向切开,然后涂一层沙拉酱,放上一层馅饼。到目前为止,这些都是法式的做法。接下来融入当地特色后,事情就变得有趣起来了。肉料一般选择叉烧肉,但也可以考虑越式猪肉丸、猪肉卷和越南香肠。里面的蔬菜通常都是切成薄片的黄瓜、腌制的白萝卜或胡萝卜,以及一些香菜和足够的辣椒酱(或者直接洒胡椒粉),保证让你吃起来酣畅淋漓。
2.Burek, Bosnia-Herzegovina
2.波斯尼亚-黑塞哥维亚的波黑
The Bosnian people didn't invent burek, but by all accounts they've perfected it. This tubular flaky pastry stuffed with ground meat arrived in the Balkans by way of Turkey, where it's called borek.
波斯尼亚人并未发明波黑,但将其发扬光大的却是他们。这种管状的酥饼由土耳其传到巴尔干半岛,以肉末儿为馅儿,在这儿它被称作波黑。
In Bosnia, meat-filled burek is only one type of pita, the term for all rolled and stuffed pastries. Other varieties include a spinach-and-feta pita called zeljanica, an egg-and-cheese version called sirnica and a potato-and-onion-filled krompirusa. A sweet version with apples and cinnamon is called jabukara. The best pita are still made by hand in Sarajevo, the impossibly thin dough rolled and flipped into wide ovals, then painted with oil and rolled gently around the chosen filling. (One local opined that the dough should be as soft as an earlobe.) The tubes of stuffed dough are then coiled into circles or lined up in tight rows before entering the oven until the top layers brown and blister and the savory center remains chewy and warm.
在波西尼亚,肉馅儿的波黑只是圆面饼的一种,它也是各种卷状馅饼的统称。其他种类包括菠菜羊乳酪圆面饼被称作蔬菜馅饼,由鸡蛋和奶酪馅儿做的叫奶酪派,还有一种叫土豆洋葱馅儿的叫土豆派,还有一种甜味的苹果和肉桂馅儿的叫做果肉馅儿。最好吃的圆面饼仍然要数萨拉热窝当地人手工制作的。他们把超级薄的面团揉成宽椭圆形,然后抹上油,塞上馅料后轻轻地卷起来。(有当地人认为面团应该做的像耳垂一样柔软)。接着将卷好的管状面团围成一圈或者紧紧地排成列,放入烤箱,等到首层烤至棕色起皮、中间美味的馅儿熟透且嚼劲十足即可。
1.以色列炸豆丸子
Falafel has become an international street food staple, the golden fried chickpea balls as ubiquitous on the streets of Paris as in New York City. But the undisputed king of falafel is Israel, particularly the modern coastal metropolis of Tel Aviv. Here you can get a warm, thick, oversized pita stuffed with fresh-fried falafel and all the fixin's any time day or night.
炸豆丸子如今已成为一道风靡全球的街边小吃了,金灿灿的鹰嘴豆丸子在巴黎和纽约街头随处可见,不过以色列的炸鹰嘴豆丸子毫无疑问是最正宗的,尤其在特拉维夫的现代沿岸都市。不论白天或晚上,你都可以吃到一个热热的、厚厚的超大份美味馅饼。
Falafel originated in Egypt and spread throughout the Middle East before Israelis adopted it as their national food in the late 20th century. The classic Israeli falafel is a fritter of ground chickpea spiced with cumin, coriander, paprika, raw garlic, onion, and lots of fresh parsley. The basic toppings are tahini sauce and an Israeli salad of chopped tomato and cucumber. At Tel Aviv falafel stands, you can also add hummus, pickled veggies, roasted eggplant salad, feta cheese, French fries (just stuff 'em in) and a wide assortment of adventurous hot sauces. I remember my first Tel Aviv falafel, steps from the beach and only hours off the plane. Confronted by the overwhelming topping choices, I did the only reasonable thing: add a little of everything. It was one of the best decisions I ever made.
炸鹰嘴豆丸子源于埃及,早在20世纪末以色列将其作为国食前就已传到中东。正宗的炸鹰嘴豆丸子配以茴香、芫荽、辣椒粉、生蒜、洋葱和许多其他鲜芹佐料。最常用的配料还有芝麻酱和土豆黄瓜泥。在特拉维夫的大排档,你还可以加上鹰嘴豆泥、泡菜、烤茄子沙拉、山羊奶酪薯条(直接夹到里面),还有各类值得冒险尝试的酱汁。我还记得我第一次去特拉维夫吃鹰嘴豆泥的情景:刚从沙滩尽兴归来,准备享受鹰嘴豆丸子,然而这时候飞机还差几小时就要起飞了。面对种类如此丰富的酱料,我做出了唯一明智的事情:把各种酱料逐一放了一点。这绝对是我人生中做出的最佳决定之一。