评论
打印
When the monthlong marathon of men’s fashion shows kicks off this week, so will the scrimmage to cover it: the race by newspapers, magazines, television networks, social media platforms and blogs to get a piece of the action for themselves and their viewers.
本周，长达一个月的男装秀开始了，报道男装秀的混战也烽烟再起：报纸、杂志、电视台、社交媒体和博客竞相为自己和读者分一杯羹。
Joining the melee for the first time will be Grindr, the famous (or infamous, depending on your point of view) social-networking app primarily for gay men. On Sunday, the app will live-stream the fall 2016 men’s wear show of J. W. Anderson as it hits the runway at London Collections: Men, the city’s biannual men’s fashion week.
今年第一次加入混战的是Grindr。它是主要面向男同性恋的著名（看你怎么看了，也有人觉得是臭名昭著）交友应用程序。周日（1月3日），该应用程序在线直播J. W. Anderson在两年一度的伦敦男装周(London Collections: Men)上的2016秋季男装秀。
Grindr’s purview has admittedly been narrow. The app introduces users to others in the surrounding area who are looking to make a connection — as often as not, a sexual one. Its buffet of thumbnail-size photos is, by design, bare-bones (and, not infrequently, bare-chested).
不可否认，Grindr的用户群很窄。这个应用程序把用户介绍给周围想要交友的人（大多是想发生性关系）。它的用户照片库只提供简单的小照片（很多照片都是赤膊）。
“Grindr is a very, very visual experience,” the app’s founder and chief executive, Joel Simkhai, said in an interview in 2014.
2014年，这个应用程序的创始人兼首席执行官乔尔·西姆克海(Joel Simkhai)在接受采访时说：“Grindr非常注重视觉体验。”
So, of course, is fashion — even if Grindr is more traditionally thought of as being for those dispensing with clothing than acquiring it.
时装当然也是如此——虽然传统观念认为，Grindr是面向那些想脱掉衣服而非穿上衣服的人。
“I think fashion is a sexy platform as well, ultimately,” said Jonathan Anderson, 31, the British designer behind J. W. Anderson, during a break from fittings in London. “We’re all humans, so we all have to be somewhat sexually attractive to someone. That’s the name of the game, with clothing.”
J. W. Anderson31岁的英国设计师乔纳森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)在伦敦试衣的间歇表示：“我认为，说到底，时装也是一个性感平台。我们都是人，所以我们都必须具有一定的性吸引力。服装就是用来达到这个目的的。”
The designer, who won British Fashion Awards for both women’s and men’s wear designer of the year in 2015, called Grindr “incredibly modern as a platform,” and his decision to put his show on it “a no-brainer.”
安德森获得了2015年英国时尚大奖(British Fashion Awards)的女装和男装最佳设计师奖。他认为Grindr“是一个非常现代的平台”，称把自己的时装秀放到这个平台上展示“是自然而然的”决定。
Grindr will be the only place to live-stream the show. Users of the app will receive a link and a code to stream the video, which will not actually play in the app itself, but in phone and tablet browsers.
Grindr将是唯一一个在线直播这场时装秀的平台。这个应用程序的用户将收到一个链接和一个代码，视频不是在应用程序上播放，而是在手机或平板电脑的浏览器里播放。
The show is the first time Grindr is experimenting with fashion content, and most likely not the last. According to the company, it now has one million active users on the platform worldwide every minute, and is aiming to broaden its offerings and its appeal.
这场时装秀是Grindr首次试验提供时装内容，这很可能不是最后一次。该公司称，现在这个平台每分钟拥有来自世界各地的100万活跃用户，它计划扩大自己的内容和吸引力。
In the fall, Grindr hired Landis Smithers, a veteran of Ogilvy & Mather and Old Navy, to spearhead its marketing and collaboration. It made waves in the fashion industry when it signed the powerful publicity agency PR Consulting shortly after. (Not by coincidence, PR Consulting also represents J. W. Anderson.)
去年秋季，Grindr聘请Ogilvy & Mather和Old Navy的资深创意总监兰迪斯·史密瑟斯(Landis Smithers)开拓市场和合作。不久之后，它与著名公关公司PR Consulting签约，在时装界引起轰动（PR Consulting也代理J. W. Anderson，这不是巧合）。
Fashion is “a very big topic of interest for a certain segment of our consumer,” Mr. Smithers said, adding that he did not rule out future projects involving music or night life.
史密瑟斯说，时尚是“我们的部分用户很感兴趣的重要话题”。他补充说，将来有可能增加与音乐和夜生活相关的内容。
He envisions a future for Grindr well beyond the scope of its grabby classifieds, and wants to shed the stigma attached in some corners to using the app.
他给Grindr展望的未来远远超越贪婪的分类广告，他想消除在某些地区使用这个应用程序的羞耻感。
“There’s a generation out there that doesn’t seem to care if people know that Grindr is on their phone, and there’s a generation that does,” Mr. Smithers said.
史密瑟斯说：“有些年龄层的人似乎不介意别人知道自己手机上下载了Grindr，但也有些年龄层介意。”
“The app is free to download,” he added. “You don’t have to use it for what its prime function is.”
他补充说：“这个应用程序是免费的。你可以不用它的主要功能。”
