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While the Right Bank of Paris has seen internationalism and the irrepressible rise of “bobos” (the Parisian form of hipsters) change its landscape in recent years, the Left Bank has been able to preserve the soul of the French capital. Walk through the Latin Quarter’s crooked cobblestone corridors or down the grand plane-tree-lined boulevards of St.-Germain-des-Prés and, more than once, you’ll think you’re inside a black-and-white Robert Doisneau photo. Cafe terraces, limestone buildings and nattily dressed locals create a timeless tableau. That’s not to say that Paris south of the dividing Seine is immune to change. But at least for now, the classic charms outweigh the contemporary influences.
近些年，巴黎右岸开始呈现国际化趋势，波波族（bobo，巴黎的时尚人士）势不可挡，改变了那里的景象，而巴黎左岸则得以保存法国首都的灵魂。穿过拉丁区弯弯曲曲的鹅卵石小巷，或者在圣日耳曼德佩区的梧桐树大道上漫步，你会不止一次感觉自己置身于罗伯特·杜瓦诺(Robert Doisneau)的黑白照片中。咖啡馆露台、石灰岩建筑和着装精致的当地人创造出永恒的生动画面。并不是说巴黎的塞纳河南岸没有变化。不过，至少现在，传统魅力盖过了当代影响力。
1. Appetite Awakener | 3:30 p.m.
1. 唤醒食欲 | 下午3点半
The Left Bank is home to cultural, fashion and artistic riches, but one of the best ways to immerse yourself in French culture is with food. Paris by Mouth, a five-year-old foodie website, offers three-hour small-group tours, including the popular Taste of St.-Germain (95 euros, or about $100 at $1.05 to the euro), which will prime you for the weekend’s culinary delights. Among the half-dozen or so stops are Poilâne Bakery, which has been churning out the same large wheels of tangy sourdough from its basement wood-burning oven for 83 years; Le Marché Couvert (or the covered market), where moneyed locals scoop up their saucisson, fresh milk and seasonal produce; and Pierre Hermé, France’s “Picasso of Pastries,” which sells cakes and macarons almost too pretty to eat. Along with the tour’s treats, you’re fed historical and cultural bits that will help you navigate the local food scene on your own.
巴黎左岸是文化、时尚和艺术财富云集之地，不过，要想浸淫于法国文化之中，最佳方式还要算享用法国美食。舌尖上的巴黎(Paris by Mouth)是一个有五年历史的美食网站，它提供三小时长的小团美食游，包括很受欢迎的“品味圣日耳曼”（Taste of St.-Germain，95欧元，按照1欧元兑换1.05美元的汇率计算，约合100美元），能让你充分了解周末的巴黎美食。美食游有六七个停靠点，包括普瓦拉纳面包房(Poilâne Bakery)，这里地下室碳烧炉做出的味道浓烈的大酸面团与83年前并无二致；还有带蓬市场(Le Marché Couvert)，富有的当地人在这里购买粗红肠、鲜奶和当季农产品；以及法国“糕点毕加索”皮埃尔·埃尔梅(Pierre Hermé)的糕点店，这里的蛋糕和马卡龙好看得让人舍不得吃。一路上除了享用美食，你还能获得不少历史文化小知识，可供日后自己寻找当地美食之用。
2. To the Top | 7:30 p.m.
2. 到最高点 | 晚上7点半
You can’t visit Paris and ignore the grandest dame of them all. The Eiffel Tower, a majestic 1,063 feet of latticed iron work planted firmly on the flat green Champ de Mars near the Seine, is the tallest structure in the city. Two elevators will whoosh you to the top (or, if you’re feeling dauntless, tackle the 1,665 steps; 15.50 euros and 5 euros, respectively) and by now it will be l’heure bleue, that magical time in the evening when the whole city is suffused in an ethereal light. If you linger long enough taking in the panorama, you’ll also be treated to the top-of-the-hour light show, when 20,000 bulbs affixed to every side of the tower twinkle and dance for five mesmerizing minutes.
来巴黎游玩，不能错过这里最宏大的建筑——埃菲尔铁塔。这个高1063英尺的网架钢铁建筑牢牢扎根于塞纳河畔郁郁葱葱的练兵场(Champ de Mars)。两部电梯可以把你快速运到顶端（如果有毅力，可以爬楼梯，总共1665级；价格分别是15.50欧元和5欧元）。这时是夜晚最神奇的时刻，整座城市沉浸在灯光的海洋里，宛如仙境。如果多停留一会儿，慢慢欣赏巴黎全景，你还能等到整点灯光秀——铁塔四周安装的2000个灯泡将闪烁跳跃五分钟，令人目眩神迷。
3. Drama With Dinner | 10 p.m.
3. 表演与晚餐 | 晚上10点
Enjoy the relative tranquillity as you amble through the Anglicized Seventh Arrondissement to the Basque restaurant — the first one to open in Paris, more than 80 years ago — Chez L’Ami Jean. Inside the tightly packed dimly lit restaurant you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with boisterous locals and tourists feasting the night away. As you ponder the 78-euro prix fixe menu, watch the theatrics (and occasional temper) of the chef, Stéphane Jégo, through the kitchen window as he perfects dishes such as mackerel in leek vinaigrette and pork belly with oysters and rabbit. Save room for dessert. The restaurant’s legendary rice pudding, accompanied by salted butter caramel and crunchy meringues, comes in a bowl large enough to feed four and may forever change the way you think of the oft-maligned treat.
在前往Chez L’Ami Jean餐馆途中，你可以在英国化的第七区享受相对的静谧气氛。Chez L’Ami Jean是巴黎的第一家巴斯克餐馆，始创于80多年前。餐馆里灯光昏暗，人声鼎沸，当地人和游客在这里尽情享乐。你在浏览78欧元的固定价格菜单时，可以透过厨房窗户观看大厨斯特凡纳·热戈(Stéphane Jégo)的精彩表演（和偶尔的坏脾气）。他用大葱酸醋沙司给鲭鱼调味，用牡蛎和兔肉搭配五花肉。留点肚子吃甜点。这家餐馆传奇的大米布丁搭配咸味黄油焦糖和松脆的蛋白糖饼，盛放在一个大碗中，足够四个人食用。这道美味经常遭人诋毁，不过这里的大米布丁可能会永远改变你对它的看法。
4, Avant-Garde Art | 11 a.m.
4. 先锋艺术 | 上午11点
If national museums like the Musée d’Orsay are too large, and St. Germain’s galleries too small for your art appreciation fix, you’ll love the scale of Paris’s fondations and the stellar exhibitions they attract. The Cartier Fondation and Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson, which are within walking distance of each other on opposite sides of the famed Montparnasse Cemetery, are sized to offer just the right dose of the familiar and the cutting edge. Exhibitions rotate several times a year, with the Cartier — housed in a light-filled, contemporary Jean Nouvel building — bringing acclaimed talent such as the Japanese pop artist Takeshi Kitano and the Australian sculptor Ron Mueck. The Cartier-Bresson, smaller and more modest, concentrates on photographers like Walker Evans and Saul Leiter.
如果你觉得像奥赛博物馆(Musée d’Orsay)这样的国家博物馆太大，而圣日耳曼德佩区的画廊又太小，不能满足你的艺术欣赏需求，那么，你会爱上巴黎各种基金会的规模，以及它们吸引到的一流展览。卡地亚基金会(The Cartier Fondation)和亨利·卡地亚-布雷松基金会(Henri Cartier-Bresson)位于著名的蒙帕纳斯公墓(Montparnasse Cemetery)两侧，两者在步行距离之内。它们的规模正好可以满足你对常规和先锋艺术的胃口。这两家基金会每年举办几次展览。卡地亚基金会位于光线充足、当代风格的让·努韦尔大厦内，它关注备受赞扬的天才，比如日本波普艺术家北野武和澳大利亚雕塑家罗恩·米克(Ron Mueck)。卡地亚-布雷松基金会面积较小，较为质朴，重点关注沃克·埃文斯(Walker Evans)和索尔·莱特(Saul Leiter)等摄影师。
5. Lunch Worth Waiting for | 1:30 p.m.
5. 值得等待的午餐 | 下午1点半
Unless waiting for bread at the boulangerie, queuing for food is not something Parisians do. But they make an exception for Le Comptoir du Relais, and so should you. On a sloping corner in St. Germain, the sliver of a restaurant is, in fact, most noticeable for the line of hungry people waiting for the first-come-first-served weekend service from the chef Yves Camdeborde, who’s often credited with starting the “bistronomy” trend currently rocking the Right Bank. This blend of a casual bistro environment and gastronomic cooking reveals its magic with simple yet otherworldly dishes like a creamy-crunchy smoked salmon croque monsieur (10 euros) or even a seasonal salad (13 euros), heaped with at least 10 kinds of vegetables and dusted with fine bits of crunchy onion.
除了在面包房等面包，巴黎人不大会为食物排队。但是，他们为Le Comptoir du Relais餐馆破例，你也应该如此。该餐馆位于圣日耳曼德佩区一个倾斜的街角。实际上，对排队等候的饥饿食客们来说，最醒目的就是餐馆前的狭长露天座位。先到先得的周末美食来自大厨伊夫·康德伯尔德(Yves Camdeborde)，他常被誉为当下震撼巴黎右岸的“bistronomy”潮流的开创者。bistronomy是将轻松的小餐馆(bistro)氛围与美食烹饪法(gastronomic)相结合，用简单而脱俗的菜肴展现神奇，比如既柔滑又有嚼头的熏制三文鱼火腿三明治（10欧元）或时令沙拉（13欧元）——这道沙拉至少含有十种蔬菜，撒着脆脆的洋葱小切块，堆了满满一碗。
6. Oh, La Mode | 3 p.m.
6. 哦，时尚 | 下午3点
Since you’re in the heart of a bustling shopping district, why not put those credit cards to use for some French treasures? (Be sure to ask salesclerks for VAT refunds.) Alexandra Sojfer makes the most ornate umbrellas and walking sticks you can imagine, with details like carved wood animal-head handles and taffeta parasols adorned with Swarovski crystals. Deyrolle appears to be a modest gardening store at street level, but ascend to the second floor to find an exotic emporium filled with rhino heads, panther skeletons, tortoise shells and all manner of taxidermy. And leave it to the French to peddle even candles with pedigrees. Cire Trudon, established in 1643, once supplied King Louis XIV’s court with candles. Today, you can take home your own piece of French history of sorts: a burning bust of Marie Antoinette or Napoleon.
既然身处繁忙购物区的中心，何不用信用卡买些法国珍宝呢（一定要向售货员索要增值税退款）？Alexandra Sojfer制作的伞和手杖极为华丽，超乎想象，比如手柄上有木雕动物头像，塔夫绸阳伞上装饰着施华洛世奇水晶。以这条街的水准看，Deyrolle似乎是个质朴的园艺商店，不过它的二楼充满异域风情，里面有犀牛头、美洲豹骷髅和龟甲等各种动物标本。连法国人沿街兜售的蜡烛都是有来历的。Cire Trudon始创于1643年，曾为国王路易十四的宫廷提供蜡烛。如今，你可以带回法国历史的一个缩影：可以燃烧的玛丽·安托瓦妮特(Marie Antoinette)或拿破仑(Napoleon)半身像。
7. Terrace Views | 6 p.m.
7. 露台风景 | 下午6点
Parisians dine later, so you have the excuse to indulge in one of their prime pastimes: people watching from a cafe terrace. Snatch one of the coveted seats at Café de Flore, where figures such as Simone de Beauvoir and Picasso once sipped, puffed and pontificated, and watch the coiffed regulars come in and kiss-kiss the maître d’hôtel while harried waiters in long white aprons weave and wend, delivering trays of aperitifs. Try a bitter Campari (9.80 euros) or a sweet kir, white wine with a splash of cassis (9.5).
巴黎人吃饭都比较晚，所以你可以借机享受一下他们最喜欢的消遣：在咖啡馆露台上看行人。西蒙娜·德·博瓦尔(Simone de Beauvoir)和毕加索(Picasso)等名人曾在Café de Flore咖啡馆里品尝咖啡，吞云吐雾，高谈阔论。在这家咖啡馆抢个好位置，看着发型漂亮的常客走进来，轻吻领班双颊，穿着长白围裙的服务员忙碌穿梭，端上一盘盘开胃酒。你可以品尝一下有苦味的金巴利酒（Campari，9.80欧元）或甜味柯尔酒（kir，9.5欧元）——加入黑加仑甜酒的白葡萄酒。
8. Nouveau Cooking | 8 p.m.
8. 新烹饪法 | 晚上8点
Neither trendy nor nostalgic, Semilla manages the perfect balance of nouveau Parisian cooking. Opened in 2012 by the international team of Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré, the sparse but sophisticated restaurant (marble tabletops, concrete floors, wood-beamed ceilings) attracts an urbane clientele from the neighborhood’s galleries and bourgeois homes. The menu is organized into categories like “raw,” “fried” and “from the oven,” with crowd favorites like shiitake mushrooms, browned in toasted sesame oil (6 euros) and the côte de boeuf for two, which is presented tableside before being taken to the open kitchen, where it’s sliced and then returned with mashed potatoes and horseradish cream (76 euros).
Semilla餐馆既不时髦，也不怀旧，实现了巴黎新烹饪法的完美平衡。这个朴素而精致的餐馆（大理石桌面、水泥地板、木横梁天花板）2012年开业，店主是一个国际组合——胡安·桑切斯(Juan Sanchez)和德鲁·哈雷(Drew Harré)。这里的顾客彬彬有礼，来自附近的画廊和中产家庭。菜单上有“生食”、“煎制”和“炉烤”等类别，明星菜品包括烤芝麻油煎香菇（6欧元）和两人份牛排（76欧元），牛排先端到桌边展示，然后拿回开放式厨房，切片后和土豆泥、辣根酱一起上桌。
9. Get Fresh | 10 a.m.
9. 新鲜清爽 | 上午10点
Every Sunday from 9 a.m. until 1:30 p.m., the air on Boulevard Raspail, between the Rue Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes, fills with the tantalizing smell of sautéing onions. It’s the onion galettes — shredded onion, potato and cheese (2.50 euros) — frying at one of the dozens of stands at the Marché Biologique Raspail. This organic market has been a neighborhood jewel for 26 years. Stroll by, admire, even ogle, but do not touch the beautiful displays. Once you’ve decided among the loaves of bread chockablock with dried fruit; towers of chevre and Comté cheese; baskets of fresh herbs and lettuces; honeys, jams and various other edible delights, the vendors will be happy to help you.
每周日上午9点至下午1点半，谢尔什-米迪路和雷恩路之间的拉斯帕伊大道(Boulevard Raspail)上弥漫着煎洋葱的浓郁香味。那是洋葱煎饼（2.50欧元）的味道，饼里有洋葱丝、土豆丝和奶酪，出自拉斯帕伊有机农作物市场(Marché Biologique Raspail)数十个摊位之一。26年来，这个有机农作物市场一直是附近居民的挚爱。你可以浏览、欣赏，甚至盯着看，但是不要触碰那些好看的展示品——塞满果脯的长面包，山羊奶酪和伯爵奶酪塔，一篮子鲜药草和莴苣，以及蜂蜜和火腿等可以直接食用的美味。你想好买什么之后，摊主会很乐意帮你拿的。
10. Sunday Stroll | Noon
10. 周日漫步 | 正午
No longer are the Luxembourg Gardens the only nearby spot of green where you can eat your market loot. Les Berges, a nearly 1.5-mile stretch along the Seine reserved for pedestrians, debuted in 2013, so what was once a diesel-fume-choked highway is now thronged with strolling families, joggers, bicyclists and skaters. Start at the Pont de l’Alma entrance to the west and make your way past the rotating art exhibitions, climbing walls and stations for hopscotch and paddleball. Once you’ve arrived at the eastern end, near Musée d’Orsay, climb the wood-plank bleacher seats for a view of the boats chugging along the river.
绿树成荫的卢森堡花园(Luxembourg Gardens)不再是附近唯一可供你享用市场美味的地方。Les Berges是塞纳河畔约1.5英里的狭长地带，专为行人保留，2013年开放。这里曾是弥漫着柴油浓烟的高速公路，现在人们纷纷来此散步、慢跑、骑自行车或玩轮滑。从西端的阿尔玛桥(Pont de l’Alma)入口开始，走过主题经常变化的艺术展览场地、攀岩墙以及跳房子游戏和板手球运动场地。到东端奥赛博物馆附近的终点后，你可以爬上露天看台，坐在木板座位俯瞰河上突突而过的小船。
11. Sweet Ending | 2 p.m.
11. 甜蜜尾声 | 下午2点
There’s always room in the belly (or in your carry-on) for French chocolate. And, seeing as St. Germain is the unofficial center of the chocolate universe, counting at least a dozen renowned chocolatiers, make a final sweep of the neighborhood’s offerings, winding up in a cobblestone alley at Pierre Cluizel’s Un Dimanche à Paris. This boutique is also an 8,600-square-foot salon de thé/restaurant/lounge devoted to high-end chocolate. A spot of the pastry chef Nicolas Bacheyre’s chocolat chaud, served warm, not hot, in traditional Limoges porcelain, is guaranteed to send you off in classic style.
你总能给法国巧克力留出肚子（或行李空间）。人们私下里认为，圣日耳曼德佩区是巴黎这个巧克力王国的中心，这里至少有十几家著名巧克力制造店。最后扫荡一遍这一地区的美味，在皮埃尔·克鲁泽尔(Pierre Cluizel)的巴黎星期天巧克力店(Un Dimanche à Paris)收尾。这家高端巧克力店位于一条鹅卵石小巷里，占地8600平方英尺，兼作茶馆、餐馆和酒吧。糕点大厨尼古拉·巴切(Nicolas Bacheyre)制作的巧克力热饮上桌时其实不是热的，而是温的，盛放在传统的利摩日瓷杯里，保证让你以最经典的方式告别巴黎。
Built in 1827, L’Hotel (13 rue des Beaux Arts, Sixth, 33-1-44-41-99-00; l-hotel.com) is the last place that Oscar Wilde resided, and holds a special place in Parisians’ hearts. The discreet and historic five-star hotel has 20 glamorous rooms, including a nearly 600-square-foot penthouse with a terrace a restaurant bar and hammam pool in the basement. Rates range from 295 to 1,050 euros.
L’Hotel（布杂艺术路13号6幢；33-1-44-41-99-00; l-hotel.com）始建于1827年，是奥斯卡·王尔德(Oscar Wilde)最后居住的地方，在巴黎人心中有着特殊地位。这个历史悠久的朴素的五星级酒店有20个迷人的房间，包括近600平方英尺的带露台的顶层套房。地下室里有餐馆酒吧和土耳其浴室。房价从295欧元至1050欧元不等。
Tucked behind the newly renovated St.-Sulpice church, the six-story Hotel Recamier (3 bis, Place Saint-Sulpice, Sixth, 33-1-43-26-04-89; hotelrecamier.com) is quiet, chic and sophisticated. The interior designer Jean-Louis Deniot made each of the 24 rooms, ranging from small to spacious, unique. But they all share a soothing, neutral palette. Rates from 280 to 495 euros.
Hotel Recamier 酒店（圣-叙尔皮斯街3号乙，6幢，33-1-43-26-04-89; hotelrecamier.com）藏在新修复的圣-叙尔皮斯教堂(St.-Sulpice)后面，共有6层。它安静、时尚、精致。室内设计师让-路易·德尼奥(Jean-Louis Deniot)把这里大小不一的24个房间设计得各有特色。不过，它们都采用让人放松的中性色调。房价从280欧元至495欧元不等。
