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There was a time when fine jewelry was thought of as something that was inherited from your grandmother, but it seems that those days are ancient history.
曾几何时，高级珠宝在人们心目中就是从祖母那里传下来的东西。但那个时代似乎已经一去不复返了。
In the last few years, a spate of young, edgy but still elegant fine jewelry designers have come on to the scene, and they’re catering to a clientele that could be described the very same way.
近些年来，一大批年轻、前卫又不失优雅的高级珠宝设计师陆续闪亮登场。而且，他们也正在迎合一群具有同样风格的客户。
The jewelry industry has been growing steadily for the last several years, with annual sales predicted to reach a total 250 billion euros (about $271 billion), up from 148 billion euros ($160 billion) by 2020, according to a report released last year by McKinsey & Company.
据麦肯锡公司(McKinsey & Company)去年公布的一份报告，珠宝行业近些年来一直在稳步增长，预计至2020年，该行业的年销售额将从1480亿欧元（大约1600亿美元，约合人民币1万亿元）增至共计2500亿欧元（大约2710亿美元，约合人民币1.69万亿）。
It seems that there is a new market for fine jewelry in the post recession years; young women who are looking for luxurious, but less ostentatious pieces they can incorporate into their daily lives. New York designers like Eva Zuckerman, who launched her Eva Fehren line in 2011, and Anna Sheffield, whose boutique opened in 2013, are catering directly to that market.
在经济衰退结束后的这些年，似乎出现了一个新兴的高级珠宝消费群体；年轻女性们正在寻找一些奢华又不太张扬的首饰，适合在她们的日常生活中佩戴。纽约市的一些珠宝设计师们直接迎合了这一市场需求，比如2011年发布了伊娃-费伦(Eva Fehren)系列珠宝的伊娃·扎克曼(Eva Zuckerman)，和2013年开设了自己的珠宝精品店的安娜·谢菲尔德(Anna Sheffield)。
“I feel like there was something missing in the marketplace not just stylistically or aesthetically, but also from the perspective of the brand value and how that corresponds to the lifestyle of our clientele,” said Ms. Sheffield.
“我感觉这个市场里缺了一些东西，不仅是在风格或审美上，从品牌价值的角度、以及从同客户生活方式间的匹配度来看，也是如此。”谢菲尔德说。
Her eponymous line, which grew out of a collection of engagement and wedding rings, ranges in price from just $200 for a set of sterling silver Rivet Studs to $19,500 for a platinum and black diamond ring named for the deity Astarte. Ms. Sheffield and her staff have noticed that women want jewelry that is beautiful and valuable, and that they can wear everyday, not the heirlooms inherited from mothers and grandmothers.
她设计的一款同名珠宝系列，衍生自一组订婚及结婚戒指，其价格范围从仅200美元（约合人民币1253元）一套的纯银饰钉(Rivet Studs)，到19500美元（约合人民币12.2万元）一枚、以司育女神阿斯塔蒂(Astarte)命名的黑宝石铂金戒指不等。谢菲尔德与她的同行们都已注意到，女人们都想要既美丽又珍贵、还可以每天佩戴的珠宝首饰，而非从母亲或祖母那里继承来的遗珍。
Incorporating high fashion and luxury into daily life is nothing new—the chicest women around the globe have been pairing their most expensive garments with purchases from lower priced brands like H&M and Top Shop for years. Those same women see accessorizing with fine jewelry as another way of incorporating luxury into their daily routines; so they are looking for pieces that fit seamlessly into their active schedules.
将时尚奢华的高档物品融入我们的日常生活，这并不是什么新鲜事。多年来，世界各地的时尚女性已经在用她们最昂贵的礼服来搭配H&M和Top Shop等价格较低的品牌服饰了。也是这些女性，把佩戴高级珠宝也视为另一种将奢华融入日常的方式；于是她们在寻找一些能够完美搭配自己各类日常安排的首饰。
Caitlin Mociun, who designs the Brooklyn based line Mociun, said she’s always surprised by the number of young women she sees in fine jewelry doing the everyday things that women of a previous generation would have removed their gems for.
在布鲁克林推出了莫辛(Mociun)品牌珠宝的设计师凯特琳·莫辛(Caitlin Mociun)说，她总是惊讶地看到许多年轻女性戴着高级首饰，在从事上一代女性只有摘下珠宝才会去做的那些日常活动。
“We’re not just sitting around in our pretty jewelry. Women want to go to their exercise class in their jewelry,” she said. “A lot of fine jewelry is not made for everyday. I have to think about how I can make something that is luxurious and beautiful, but also holds up in their lifestyle.”
“我们不只是戴着漂亮的珠宝闲坐着。女人们还想戴着首饰去健身房，”她说，“许多高级珠宝并不是为日常佩戴而设计的。我必须想想怎样才能做出一些既奢华美观，又能契合她们生活方式的首饰。”
Ms. Fehren has seen a similar trend with her customers. She said that they are looking to buy pieces that can be worn easily from day in to evening. Her geometric line includes rings and bangles in varying weights, making them ideal for stacking or layering. It pairs unexpected stones, like opaque sapphires and grey diamonds with 18-carat gold.
费伦女士也从自己客户身上看到了类似趋势。她说，她们想买的是一些无论日夜均可佩戴的首饰。她的几何系列包括了各种成色的戒指及手镯，非常适合层叠佩戴。首饰上还出其不意地镶嵌着一些宝石，比如不透明的蓝宝石和带有18克拉金的灰钻。
“Our customer is looking for designs that are not overly complicated and looks to invest in timeless pieces that complement her overall style,” she said. Her best selling pieces fall into the $4,000-$7,000 range, though some items cost as much as $30,000.
“我们的客户不想要过分繁复的设计，而是希望投资一些既能保值、又可以衬托自己整体风格的首饰，”她说。她卖得最好的作品，价格介于4000美元（约合人民币2.5万元）至7000美元（约合人民币4.4万元）之间，不过也有一些价格会高达30000美元（约合人民币18.8万元）。
And it is women who are doing the investing. Another factor affecting growth in the fine jewelry market is that, more than ever, women are purchasing expensive pieces for themselves instead of waiting to receive the items they covet as gifts on special occasions.
而且，在做这项投资的都是女人。影响珠宝市场增长的另一个因素是，女士们比以往任何时候都更倾向于自己购买昂贵的珠宝，而非等待某个特殊场合，才收到这些令她们倾心已久的首饰作为礼物。
Rony Vardi, owner of the jewelry boutique Catbird, and Leigh Plessner, the store’s general manager said they see self-purchasing that ranges from small to extravagant. They say that younger women shopping to celebrate a milestone or a hard week at work with mid-priced fine jewelry.
猫鹊(Catbird)珠宝精品店的店主罗尼·瓦尔迪(Rony Vardi)与该店的总经理利·普勒纳(Leigh Plessner)都说，他们发现，从小件饰品到奢华首饰，都不乏买给自己的顾客。他们说，一些年轻女士会购买中等价位的高级珠宝，来为自己达到某个里程碑而庆祝，或犒劳自己一个星期的辛苦工作。
“Fine jewelry not a stodgy thing that is totally inaccessible. You can own something really beautiful that can be passed down to your kids, and it’s the same price as a pair of really beautiful shoes that you would wear for a few seasons and retire,” Ms. Vardi said by phone.
“高级珠宝并不是什么难以企及的老古板物件。你可以拥有这类不仅很美、还能传给你孩子的东西，其价格无非相当于一双非常漂亮的、让你穿上几季就束之高阁的鞋子。”瓦尔迪在电话中说。
Catbird, which has developed a cult following by women of all ages, opened in Brooklyn ten years ago. At first, its core business was with women in their 20s, who they say have grown with the brand. In recent years Ms. Vardi and Ms. Plessner noticed women coming to them for engagement and wedding rings, which encouraged them to expand Catbird’s offerings.
而猫鹊，已经缔造出了一种让各年龄段女性都趋之若鹜的流行文化。这家珠宝店于十年前在布鲁克林开业。该店最初的核心业务面向的是那些20多岁的女性，后来这些客户与此品牌共同成长。近些年，瓦尔迪和普勒斯纳留意到，有些女士甚至来他们这里看订婚戒指和结婚戒指。这样的需求促使他们扩大了猫鹊经营的品类。
“That opened the door. We realized that people wanted to see the higher priced pieces, not just for weddings, but to buy for themselves or as gifts.”
“那些需求为我们开启了一扇门。我们意识到，人们想看看价格更高的珠宝，不仅是为婚礼，也有买给自己、或作为礼物的。”
Overall sales at Catbird have grown steadily, increasing 21 percent from 2013 to 2014 and 32 percent year to date from 2014 to 2015.
猫鹊的总销售额也在稳步增长。从2013年至2014年增长了21%，而2014年到2015年间更是增长了32%。
Another New York based designer, Pamela Love, whose costume jewelry brand also saw cult success with young women when it launched in 2007, expanded in to fine jewelry last year.
另一位纽约珠宝设计师帕米拉·洛芙(Pamela Love)，去年也将经营范围扩展到了高级珠宝首饰。此前，她的廉价珠宝品牌自2007年创立以来，就在年轻女性之间风靡开了。
Ms. Love said that her clients are in their 20s to middle 40s, and that many of them hear about the collection, sold exclusively at Barney’s New York, through social media. The label’s Instagram account boasts over 100,000 followers.
洛芙说，她的客户群年龄都在20多岁到40多岁之间，其中许多人都是通过社交媒体得知这个只在纽约巴尼斯商店(Barney’s New York)出售的珠宝品牌的。该品牌的Instagram账号目前已经吸引了超过10万粉丝。
According to a McKinsey survey, one to two-thirds of luxury shoppers says that they frequently turn to social media for advice.
据麦肯锡的问卷调查显示，有三分之一到三分之二的奢侈品购买者称，他们常常在社交媒体上寻求建议。
Ms. Sheffield and Ms. Mociun’s brands also have Instagram accounts that serve as a prime space to showcase another element of their businesses that is changing the way young women shop for fine jewelry: their custom made pieces. For both brands the segment still remains mostly dedicated to engagement and wedding rings, though customers often return to have additional pieces made, for themselves or as gifts. Eva Fehren also works with clients on bespoke creations and all three of the brands say that many of their customers bring heirloom stones to have them reset to their taste.
谢菲尔德与莫辛的品牌也都有Instagram账号，她们将它作为一处绝佳的空间，来施展他们业务当中的另一项特色：定制珠宝。这一特色服务将改变年轻女性购买高级珠宝的方式。对于这两个品牌而言，虽然有些顾客也常来定制一些首饰自己佩戴，或作为礼物送人，但她们的细分市场依然主要集中于订婚和结婚戒指。伊娃-费伦也为一些客户定做首饰，而且这三个品牌的设计师都说，他们有许多客人会把家传的宝石带来，让她们根据自己的喜好重新设计款式。
“I have one client who I’m always slowly making something for,” Ms. Mociun said.
“有一位客人，我总是会慢慢地为她做些什么。”莫辛说。
Each of the New York City based designers said that they plan to continue to grow their fine jewelry business.
这几位身处纽约的设计师都说，她们打算不断扩大自己的高级珠宝生意。
Ms. Vardi said that the uptick in jewelry sales across the board makes perfect sense.
瓦尔迪说，珠宝销售的全线增长说明了一切。
“There is something very special about jewelry. Clients are never grumpy when they are buying jewelry. There is no ‘Oh this is going to make me look fat.’ It is a pleasurable and meaningful experience, and I think that increases the value.”
“在珠宝行业里，有一件事非常特别。客人们在购买珠宝时从不会怨声载道。他们不会说‘唉，这让我太显胖了’之类的。购买珠宝是一种令人愉悦又很有意义的体验，所以我认为这会让珠宝显得更加宝贵。”她说。
