Somewhere in the Caucasus, around 6,000 BC, someone discovered grapes fermenting in a jar and for some unfathomable reason, decided to taste it.
大约在公元前6000年,在高加索地区的某个地方,有人发现了一罐正在发酵的葡萄,出于某种难以理解的原因,决定尝一尝。
And thank God they did because this is thought to be the origin of wine.
并且感谢上帝他们这样做了,因为这被认为是葡萄酒的起源。
Aside from water, wine may be the longest-standing beverage in human history.
除了水以外,葡萄酒可能是人类历史上最古老的饮品。
Even today, it is among the top five most consumed drinks in the world.
即使在今天,它也是世界上消费最多的五种饮料之一。
Throughout history, it has played an important role in culture and religion.
在整个历史中,它在文化和宗教方面发挥了重要作用。
In 2023, we consumed about 25 billion liters of wine globally.
在2023年,我们在全球范围内消费了大约250亿升葡萄酒。
A sure sign that our romance with wine is as strong as ever, but as the oenophiles, that’s Greek for wine lover, are quick to point out, they don’t make it like they used to.
但正如 oenophiles(希腊语,即葡萄酒爱好者)很快指出的那样,葡萄酒的酿造工艺已不同往日。
The wine most of us drink today bears little resemblance to that of our ancestors and to some, that’s cause for sour grapes.
今天,我们大多数人喝的葡萄酒与我们祖先喝的葡萄酒几乎没有什么相似之处,对有些人来说,这就是酸葡萄酒的原因。
Today on Cold Call, we welcome Professor Tiona Zuzul to discuss the case, “Frank Cornelissen, the Great Sulfite Debate."
今天在ColdCall节目中,我们欢迎蒂奥娜·祖祖尔教授来讨论这个案例,“弗兰克·科内利森,关于亚硫酸盐的大辩论”。
I’m your host, Brian Kenny and you’re listening to Cold Call on the HBR Podcast Network.
我是你们的主持人布莱恩·肯尼,你正在收听的是HBR播客网络的《 Cold Call》节目。
Tiona Zuzul studies how leaders and organizations learn to adapt in response to environmental shifts and periods of discontinuous change.
蒂奥娜·祖祖尔研究领导者和组织如何学习以适应环境变化和不连续变化时期。
That sounds like the perfect area of research for today’s conversation. Welcome to Cold Call. Thank you so much, Brian. It’s a pleasure to be here.
这听起来像是今天对话的完美研究领域。欢迎来到《Cold Call》。非常感谢你,布莱恩。很高兴来到这里。
I’m going to start by asking you to tell us what the central issue is in the case and what your cold call is to start the discussion. Okay.
首先,我想请你告诉我们案件的核心问题是什么,以及你想以什么作为讨论的开场白。 好的 。
Before we get into that, can I ask you, have you tried Frank’s wine? I have not tried Frank’s wine.
在我们进入这个话题之前,我可以问你一下吗,你有没有试过弗兰克的葡萄酒?我没有试过弗兰克的葡萄酒。
Maybe that is something that we’ll need to fix after this podcast. I said I’ve got to find some natural wine.
或许在这期播客之后,这是我们需要解决的问题。我说过我得找一些天然葡萄酒。
I don’t know if they sell it in my local wine store or not. We can figure that out. We can figure that out. We’ll take some time to figure that out.
我不知道在我当地的葡萄酒商店是否有出售。我们可以搞清楚。我们可以搞清楚。我们需要一些时间来搞清楚。
The central issue in the case is a decision that Frank Cornelissen, storied natural winemaker, faced in 2018.
该案件的核心问题是著名的自然酿酒师弗兰克·科内利森在2018年面临的一个决定。
Frank had been making wine in Sicily, in Italy for the last 17 years.
弗兰克在过去的17年里一直在意大利的西西里岛酿酒。
He was seen as one of the preeminent natural winemakers, a rock star in the natural wine making scene, and he was as known for his wonderful wines as for his unwavering commitment to the principles of natural wine making, which we’ll get into in a moment.
他被视为杰出的天然葡萄酒酿造者之一,是天然葡萄酒酿造领域的摇滚明星,他以其出色的葡萄酒以及对天然葡萄酒酿造原则的坚定承诺而闻名,我们稍后会详细介绍这些原则。
And one of the challenges that artisanal winemakers like Frank face is that every harvest is essentially a “bet the vineyard” decision.
而像弗兰克这样的手工酿酒师所面临的挑战之一,就是每一次采摘都是一次 "押宝葡萄园 "的决定。
If you are committed to growing a small number of grapes and producing a small number of bottles, then if anything happens to a year’s harvest, you risk not being able to survive if you can’t make wine in that year.
如果你致力于种植少量葡萄并生产少量葡萄酒,那么如果某一年的收成出现问题,你就有可能无法生存,因为你无法在那一年酿造葡萄酒。
And in 2018, Frank encountered some unfortunate weather conditions, so it was a really rainy year.
并且在2018年,弗兰克遭遇了一些不幸的天气状况,所以那是一个非常多雨的年份。
As he was harvesting his grapes, he realized that tiny specks of mold had formed on their skins, and he knew what this meant. That he might lose the harvest.
当他在收获葡萄时,他意识到葡萄皮上已经形成了微小的霉菌斑点,他知道这意味着什么。他可能会失去收成。
He also knew one potential way to save the grapes, which was to add sulfites or sulfur dioxide, which is a commonly used preservative in wine making.
他也知道一种可能拯救葡萄的方法,那就是添加亚硫酸盐或二氧化硫,这是酿酒中常用的防腐剂。
The issue is that Frank had spoken out very publicly against the use of sulfites throughout his career.
问题在于,弗兰克在其整个职业生涯中都曾非常公开地表示反对使用亚硫酸盐。
So, the decision that Frank faced in 2018 was: do I add sulfites, saving my grapes, but potentially risking the winery’s reputation and going against my own principles as a winemaker?
因此,弗兰克在2018年面临的决定是:我是否添加亚硫酸盐,拯救我的葡萄,但这可能会危及酒庄的声誉,并且违背我作为酿酒师的原则?
Or do I not add sulfites and risk losing the harvest and potentially the entire winery? Yeah.
或者我不添加亚硫酸盐,冒着失去收成,甚至可能失去整个酒庄的风险? 是啊。